From the capital, Colombo, we made our way down the south coast in a private car with chauffeur, which is the most practical and flexible way to get around. First we made our way the city of Galle, where Sri Lanka's most perfectly preserved colonial town, Galle Fort, is located.

Above: The lighthouse in Galle Fort

Above: Young Buddhists seen at the fort

Huge bastions and weathered walls surround this small, sleepy town dotted with Dutch-colonial homes. But things have changed rapidly in Galle in recent years as expatriates and members of Colombo's growing elite have snapped up colonial homes and renovated them into spectacular boutique hotels and luxurious private villas, such as Kahanda Kanda and Taprobane Island.

Above: Taprobane Island for rent

The fort is also where the location of the Amangalla, an impeccably restored hotel that combines period design with modern luxuries. Surprisingly, the service was not up to the same standard as other Amanresorts properties, but it remains a good base for many unforgettable excursions: enjoying the idyllic beaches of Unawatuna or Bentota, taking breezy bike rides through rice paddies, seeing Sri Lanka's iconic stilt fishermen on the shore at Midigama, and spotting the rare blue whales at Mirissa.

Above: The stunning colonial architecture of Amangalla transports you to another era

 

Above: The pool of the Amangalla

Above: The Amanresorts has a second property, the Amanwella, a secluded, private beach resort that's both serene and sophisticated in design

Next we headed inland towards Yala National Park, Sri Lanka's most visited wildlife reserve. Yala, one of around 20 national parks in Sri Lanka, provides a taste of the best of Sri Lanka's wildlife: set against striking backdrops of lakes and plains, you'll be rewarded by views of peacocks on top of rocks doing their song and dance for the ladies, langur monkeys congregating at sunset by a lake to chatter, crocodiles as still as rocks by ponds, elephants scratching themselves against trees, herds of spotted deer whose heads snap up in unison at the slightest sound, and birds of all shapes and sizes.

Above: Yala National Park is stunning at daybreak

Above: The elephants-in-residence at the park

Above: Lakes and plains abound the park

Above: An impressive number of langur monkeys sit by the lake for a chat

The park's most famous residents are its spotted leopards; Sri Lanka boasts one of the highest concentrations of the elusive animal in the world.

Above: The spotted leopards a rare find

Above: Luxury tented camping within the park with Leopard Safaris, a small but highly recommended operation - spacious tents, hot showers, fabulous riverside dining. Plus: unrivalled knowledge of leopard habits

Next stop was the southern hill country, where undulating, rolling tea valleys abound. It's all colonial charm in Nuwara Eliya, the highest town, and Ella, the latter a postcard-pretty version of a charming English country village. Not far from here is Adam's Peak. Buddhists say the trail going up the mountain is made of Buddha's footprints, while Hindus say they're Shiva's and Muslims once claimed that they were the footprints Adam made after he was cast out of heaven. This is one of the country's foremost pilgrimage sites and the climb is a challenging 2,243 metres – but it's richly rewarding, with stunning views from the top.

Above: Adam’s Peak

The best place to stay when you're in tea country is undoubtedly the Ceylon Tea Trails network. Four intimate bungalows offer atmospheric lodgings in former British estate managers' homes built between 1890 and 1939. The bungalows, with their authentic furnishings and genteel charm, dot the southern highlands around the town of Hatton and combine the experience of life on working tea estates with five-star luxury. Each bungalow is located in a spectacular spot: Castlereagh overlooks a tranquil, beguiling lake, for example, while Tientsin has 360-degree views of tea valleys. The food is superb – the chef comes out for every meal to discuss your preferences – and the service outstanding.

Above: Breakfast on the verandah of Tiesntin bungalow

Above: The rolling tea valleys of Hatton

Above: The Norwood bungalow

Above: Beside the Norwood bungalow is a tea factory where one can learn about the tea manufacturing process, plus tips on how to brew and enjoy the perfect cuppa

Above: The gardens and lake of Castlereagh bungalow

A must in tea country is a train journey through the countryside. The observation carriages give the best views but tickets must be booked far in advance, especially during peak season. The train can take you as far as Kandy, the country's second city and the birthplace of Theravada Buddhism. It's also the venue for one of Asia's most spectacular festivals, the Esala Perahera, which will next take place in August. Believed to date back as far as the third century BC, it's a spectacle that draws tourists from the world over to witness a procession of elephants, drummers, dancers and acrobats paying homage to a sacred relic: one of Buddha's teeth.

Still further north is the so-called Cultural Triangle. Here, the ancient city of Polonnaruwa contains some of the country's most impressive ancient architecture; Sigiriya, an ancient rock fortress and palace, features an extensive network of gardens, reservoirs and frescoes; and Dambulla boasts magical cave temples.

Even Colombo holds some pleasant surprises. Although small by capital-city standards, it still has its charms: the National Museum houses a surprisingly fine collection, while the Pettah bazaar is rich in sights and sounds. Stay at the iconic Galle Face Hotel where high tea is a must, or dine at Gallery Café, which occupies a beautiful villa once used by Sri Lanka's most famous architect, Geoffrey Bawa, whose tropical-modernist work can be found all over the country.

As my trip came to an end, I realised that "serendipity" is exactly the right word to describe Sri Lanka: it really is a country full of pleasant surprises.

Above: The iconic Galle Face Hotel

For tailor-made trips and stays in the island's most luxurious accommodations, we recommend SriLanka In Style: www.srilankainstyle.com